Frocks Top the Best Dressed List
NEW
YORK CITY (By Olivia Barker, USA Today) August 25, 2007 — Women are dressing for success these
days — literally.
The day dress, that symbol of '50s housewives
and '70s secretaries, is being dusted off and embraced for work and play this
summer, and it'll be flouncing into fall.
If luxury jeans-plus-flirty top was the uniform
of choice for the first part of the decade, the dress — from the structured
shirtdress to this season's floaty mini-frock — is reclaiming its spot at the
front of closets everywhere.
For the 12 months ending in April, dress sales
swelled an unprecedented 30.4% vs. the same period the year before, according to
The NPD Group, a market research firm. The style shift toward shifts and sheaths
is further evidence of the industry's continued sashay toward femininity,
experts say.
Having left the androgynous '90s, we're now in
denim withdrawal, says Jack Mascharka the designer behind Scharke. (Since it
launched three seasons ago, the label's dress styles have increased from about
four to at least a dozen.) "Jeans really homogenized women," says Mascharka.
"The dress is being discovered as this amazing expression piece."
In 2007, women's jeans sales fell for the first
time in five years, dropping 1.8%, according to The NPD Group.
Much like the suit, the dress is an easy way to
get ready in the morning, says NPD chief industry analyst Marshal Cohen. "You
don't have to go coordinate with three other pieces."
But unlike a suit, the dress is a canvas that's
easily personalized. "You can belt them, accessorize them," throw on a jacket or
pull on a cardigan, says Lucky fashion director Hope Greenberg. "It's the
biggest fashion no-brainer."
And it has good legs. "The little dress
phenomenon just keeps going and going," says Bridget Foley, executive editor of
W and Women's Wear Daily. "They're fresh. They look great with a
range of footwear."
As the frock fetish prances forward, Mascharka
sees a focus on more fitted silhouettes and innovative sleeves. "We're finally
moving out of the empire trend," he says — relief for "older women who aren't
necessarily thrilled about baby doll dresses." Cohen forecasts skimpiness being
swapped for "a little more coverage."
Flowy or form-fitting, it's all welcome news
for clothing lines that have long focused on frocks, even when denim dominated.
Dress sales at Jill Stuart are up more than 100% in the last year alone.
In the last 18 months, Shoshanna Gruss has seen
her eponymous company, Shoshanna, grow nearly 50%. "For so long, the majority of
the major department stores were so focused on T-shirts and denim they weren't
even looking at lines like mine," says Gruss, whose collection is 95% dresses,
from strapless solids to tunic-y prints. Frocks were "more for occasion
dressing. Now contemporary floors are filled with dresses. People are buying
less and less casual clothing."
It's about "wanting to be a little less overtly
sexy," says Gruss, who dons dresses daily. "People just want to be prettier, a
little more feminine." Gruss, who owns "thousands" of dresses, recently had new
closets constructed, all at dress length. "The builders asked, 'Where are you
going to put your pants and shirts?' I'm like, 'What pants and shirts?' "
There are practical considerations, too.
Shorter women don't have to worry about getting anything hemmed. And with pants,
"you gotta have a great butt all the time," says Gruss. "But with a nice full
skirt, nobody really knows what that butt looks like. All you need are great
calves and great shoes."
Early on in high school, Madeleine Kronovet's
Manhattan closet was stacked with "probably 10 to 15" pairs of premium jeans.
Now, the rising college sophomore is down to only one pair — and up to more than
25 dresses. (One of her two closets at school last year was largely devoted to
them.) She sees her friends moving in a similar sartorial direction.
Kronovet, 19, wears frocks (she's partial these
days to brief, billowy silhouettes) for going out as well as for her summer
internship in New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg's office. "It's just a lot easier
to go in my closet and put on a pretty dress and walk out the door," she says.
Not to mention, dresses are ideal for "when it gets so hot."
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